This is my quick review of the Skullcandy RocNation Aviator headphones, the white version.
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You just turned on your TV and suddenly the picture disappears just a second after it appeared, but you're hearing the television program through the speakers. If this occurs, your LCD TV's backlight has gone out. It is like a blown light bulb when you walk into a room, flip the switch and it suddenly blows.
And now you are wondering what to do next.
One of the most common issues responsible for LCD TV failure is backlight failure, but this is not a reason for you to replace your LCD TV. As a matter of fact, you can replace the backlight and do so affordably.
One way you can achieve LCD TV backlight replacement is to take the task on yourself or engage the services of a professional to do it for you, but there are times in which you can troubleshoot the issue on your own.
Troubleshooting
When the backlight goes, you can take on the task of replacing the inverter board if you can find the exact part. You can contact the manufacturer for this. If you cannot obtain the part, you may need to replace the entire LCD panel.
But you may notice that there may be a note on the back of your TV that says "no serviceable parts." This doesn't mean that it can't be fixed. This simply means you may have difficulty finding the parts. Nevertheless, the job is usually as simple as removing the dead cathode and replacing it with a new inverter and tube. This is actually not as dangerous as opening up non-LCD TVs and trying to replace the parts.
As for what you invest in the task, it is possible for LCD TV backlight replacement to take about thirty minutes of your time and cost you as little as . Online outlets, school surplus, and stores selling new and/or used replacement parts are places you can buy what you need.
Take note that you may need to desolder and solder wires depending on the model of your television.
Professional
Being that the job of LCD TV backlight replacement can take less than 30 minutes of your life and cost you very little, it can be difficult considering a professional. However, not everyone is comfortable with taking their expensive LCD TV apart and desoldering, soldering, and putting in a replacement part.
A professional is able to find the part, take care of the installation, test it to make sure it is working, make it right if the TV is not working, and can offer some degree of a guarantee if the backlight fails within a certain amount of time. However, such a service does cost money and you must compare the cost of such a service to you buying a new television. If you find that buying a new television would be an option, then it would be worth you attempting the LCD TV backlight replacement on your own. If replacing the backlight on your own does not work, the amount of money you are out of is small and you can go forward with buying a new LCD TV.
Nevertheless, it may be worth attempting the replacement task on your own.
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Is 720p vs 1080i worth being concerned about? Yes and no. If you're a consumer looking for a new TV, you can happily ignore the 720p vs 1080i debate because every TV which is described as HDTV or HDTV Ready is required to support both formats.
NOTE: You should be aware though that lots of TVs which support 1080i have fewer than 1080 lines and so scale the 1080 signal down. That's not a huge issue as even scaled down 1080i is far ahead of a regular NTSC signal. It is worth bearing in mind that more expensive HDTVs tend to have better scalers than cheaper ones, and this may be an issue.
However, for broadcasters it's a live issue. Should they broadcast 1080 lines of interlaced video or 720 lines of progressive scan? They could just broadcast two signals, one in each format, but that would use up a huge chunk of bandwidth and be hugely expensive for very little gain.
To answer the question, it's important to understand the difference between 720p vs 1080i. A 720p signal is made up of 720 horizontal lines. Each frame is displayed in its entirety on-screen for 1/30th of a second. This is know as progressive scan (hence the 'p')The quality is like watching 30 photographic images a second on TV. A 1080i signal comprises 1080 horizontal lines but all the lines are not displayed on-screen simultaneously. Instead, they are interlaced (hence the 'i'), ie every other lines is displayed for 1/60th of a second and then the alternate lines are displayed for 1/60th of a second. So, the frame rate is still 30 frames per second, but each frame is split into two fields, which your brain then puts together subconsciously.
Most of the time interlacing works fine, but for fast moving images, such as sports like baseball and hockey it can cause problems which manifest themselves as a 'stepping' effect on-screen. Progressive scan signals don't have this problem and so are better suited to sports.
ESPN puts it like this: 'Progressive scan technology produces better images for the fast moving orientation of sports television. Simply put, with 104 mph fastballs in baseball and 120 mph shots on goal in hockey, the line-by-line basis of progressive scan technology better captures the inherent fast action of sports. For ESPN, progressive scan technology makes perfect sense.'
Bottom line? For us, as consumers 720p vs 1080i is not a debate worth worrying about, so you can relax and focus on all the other criteria on your list when you buy your next HDTV.
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If there is a way to get in your RV, water will find it. Water leaks on an RV can cause extensive damage and can be extremely costly to repair. When I worked at an RV dealership I saw the damaging effects that water can cause to an RV time and time again. I learned the lesson the hard way. I appraised a unit that was being traded in and didn't identify the extensive water damage, which resulted in a thousand dollars worth of repairs. Hindsight is 20/20 and I quickly learned how to inspect for, and identify potential water damage on RVs. My recommendation is that you inspect for potential water leaks twice a year at a minimum, once in the fall and again in the spring.
Every seam on your RV and anywhere the manufacturer cut a hole in your RV has the potential to allow water in. To protect your investment and your wallet take the time to REALLY inspect all of these seams and sealants. Water damage on an RV is similar to progressive damage to a tire. The outside of the tire looks fine, but the internal damage over a long period of time causes the tire to fail without any warning. The outside of your RV looks fine but the internal damage caused by water over a long period of time can result in the entire roof, floor or wall rotting away without you knowing it. Here are a few things to look for during your inspections.
Always keep safety on your mind when you are working on the roof of your RV You can be seriously injured from a fall! A reader of mine suggested that you use 2 pieces of 1/2"
plywood, 2 foot by 4 foot, to move around on and spread your weight out over the
roof rafters.
* To stop a leak before it starts, thoroughly inspect all roof and body seams. Consult with your RV dealer for sealants compatible with different types of roofing materials.
* Look for any discoloration and feel for any soft spots on the ceiling around roof vents, air conditioners, TV antennas, plumbing vents, and any other openings that were cut in the roof.
* Look for any discoloration or wrinkles in the wallpaper, and feel for any soft spots on the walls around all windows, doors, vents, slide outs, or any other openings that were cut in the side walls.
* Identify the location of items like the water heater, furnace, outside shower, potable water fill and city water inlet on the outside of the RV and then access those areas from the inside of the RV and look for any indications of water damage around these openings.
* Open all overhead cabinets and look in the top corner where the walls meet the ceiling for any discoloration or feel for any soft spots. This would indicate a leak at the seam where the sidewall and the roof attach.
* Check in all outside storage compartments for any indications of water leaks or water damage.
* Check for any soft spots on the roof itself especially around the roof seams at the front and rear of the RV. Thoroughly inspect all sealants on the roof around every opening.
* Some Class C motor homes are notorious for leaks in the cab over bed area. Look for any signs of discoloration and feel for soft spots. Reach under the mattress and feel for water.
* Look and feel on the outside of the RV for any signs of delaminating. Delaminating is caused by water getting between the exterior fiberglass and the sidewall. When this happens the exterior fiberglass separates from the sidewall of the RV. You can stand at the front or rear of the RV and look down the side for any noticeable ripples or what looks like a bubble. You can also press on the sidewalls. If you feel the exterior fiberglass move it is delaminating. Often times delaminating starts around where an opening that was made in the sidewall.
Don't just inspect your RV for water damage; REALLY inspect your RV for water damage. If you do this on a regular basis you can locate and repair the source of any water damage before it has a chance to do a great deal of damage. I think I'll start checking our motor home more than twice a year.
Happy Camping,
Mark
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
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